Your Guide to Molokai

Molokai
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Molokai. A rural Hawaiian island full of natural beauty. Here, tourists don’t line the street, and you won’t see a single glistening resort. The community is rooted in traditional Hawaiian values, offering a glimpse into what Hawaii would be like without tourism and mainland influences. 

And for most, it’s best to leave Molokai unvisited. This isn’t the place to be drenched in resort-quality service, to rush from one activity to the next, or to feel entitled to any kind of experience.

But, for the few who venture to Molokai with the right outlook and expectations, you may find a kind of serenity you’ve never experienced before. Today we’re learning more about Molokai, from its earliest history to the unique draw of the island that continues to endure.

An Exceptional Place

Molokai is the fifth largest island in the Hawaiian island chain. It measures 38 miles long and is 10 miles wide at its widest point. 

For reference, you can compare that to Oahu, which is 44 miles long and 30 miles wide. 

Molokai is between Oahu and Maui, with the island of Lanai just south of it. It is part of Maui County, which also includes the islands of Maui and Lanai. So, there’s no government seat or capitol on Molokai. However, the majority of homes, businesses, and county offices are located in the town of Kaunakakai. 

Geographically, Molokai is a wonder. It’s home to some of the highest sea cliffs in the world, a range of microclimates, and untouched beaches.

Molokai Sea Cliffs
Molokai Sea Cliffs

But what makes Molokai so exceptional are the people who live there. The island’s communities, lifestyle, and traditions set it apart from the other Hawaiian islands. 

Molokai Quick Facts

Location: In the Hawaiian Islands, between Oahu and Maui

Size: 261 square miles (38 miles long and 10 miles wide)

Population: About 7,500 residents

Main Town: Kaunakakai 

Why is Molokai Famous

Before we talk about why you may have heard of Molokai, let’s talk about why you may have never heard of it. 

Molokai tends to fly under the tourism radar, and most residents (and visitors!) prefer to keep it that way. You can’t fly directly to Molokai from the mainland, you don’t have a range of hotel options, and there’s not a ton to do once you get there. 

It’s also not a place where many people move (and the residents definitely want to keep it that way!). The island has limited jobs and resources, and the cultural thread is an essential part of life there. 

So it’s small, both in size and population, and it doesn’t offer much to tourists. But still, it holds a place in the hearts of wanderlusts, geographers, and Hawaii enthusiasts. 

One of Molokai’s biggest claims to fame is its sea cliffs. The island’s north shore is made of steep, green cliffs that reach up to 3,900 feet high. 

Below the sea cliffs rests the remote peninsula of Kalaupapa, where 8,000 people with Hansen’s disease (the majority of whom were Native Hawaiian) lived in isolation after being forced away from their families and communities. Today, Kalaupapa is a National Historic Park

Kalaupapa from Above
Kalaupapa from Above

Many people also know and love Molokai because of its size and unique features. Visiting there feels like stepping back in time. While other islands face development, heavy tourism, and big-city vibes, Molokai is marked by its authentic small-town lifestyle and Hawaiian traditions. 

The History of Molokai

Molokai formed over a million years ago, and early Polynesian settlers arrived around 600 AD. They first settled in Halawa Valley, on the far east end of the island.  Over the centuries, they lived throughout Molokai, including remote Kalaupapa, surviving largely off of taro farming and fishing. 

Beginning in the 1700s, Molokai faced invasion by the kingdoms of other islands. In 1795, Kamehameha I invaded Molokai as he united all the Hawaiian islands under his rule. 

The 1800s saw many changes for Molokai, as ranches were established and natural native habitats were destroyed. Missionaries began arriving in the middle of the century too, and they were the ones who led the charge to turn Kalaupapa into a colony for Hansen Disease (Leprosy) patients to live in isolation. This meant removing Native Hawaiians from their homes in Kalaupapa and moving in other Native Hawaiians who had been forced from their homes on other islands.

Kalaupapa served as a leprosy colony from 1866 to 1969. Today, a few surviving patients choose to remain in Kalaupapa. 

While the remote peninsula served as America’s largest leprosy settlement, the “topside” of Molokai also saw changes. The land was used for sugar plantations, cattle ranches, and later pineapple plantations. 

Through the 1900s, most of the island’s agricultural activity occurred on the west end’s Molokai Ranch, private property comprising about a third of the island. Paniolo (cowboy) culture reigned supreme on Molokai as the property served as a cattle ranch. Today, the paniolo lifestyle continues strong on this rural island. 

Around the year 2000, Molokai Ranch opened a lodge, restaurant, golf course, and movie theater, but it shut down all operations (ranching and tourism) in 2008. Now the area is mostly overgrown, but there is a small neighborhood and general store in its town of Maunaloa. 

Molokai Today

As other islands struggle to balance growing tourism with the everyday needs of residents, Molokai remains true to Hawaiian traditions, creating jobs and lifestyles based on local needs, not the needs of tourists. 

While that can make life on Molokai a little more challenging, it also makes it feel so much more authentic. It has a genuine small-town atmosphere where everyone helps their neighbors, keeping watch over each other and the island they call home. 

Visiting Molokai

While Molokai isn’t a “tourist destination,” the right visitor can still have a great time on this small island. The key is having the right expectations, acting respectfully to the land and people, and being flexible. 

You may have a good time on Molokai if…

  • You can have flexible travel plans in case flight schedules change dramatically.
  • You enjoy a lot of downtime on your vacations. 
  • You don’t need luxurious accommodations, sleek rental cars, and high-end shops.
  • You enjoy learning about cultures and respect different lifestyles.

You probably shouldn’t visit Molokai if…

  • You like to do a lot of activities on vacation.
  • You can’t stand finding a bug in your hotel room, need pristine beach access, and want 5-star service.
  • You believe that local residents should be eager to serve and respect you since you’re contributing to their economy.

Flights

When you travel to Molokai, you’ll arrive at the Hoolehua Airport (MKK). Mokulele is your only airline option, and they fly in from Maui and Oahu. 

Mokulele flights to Molokai get booked up quickly, as they’re primarily 9-passenger planes. If you’ve never rode on one of these “island hoppers,” you’re in for a treat (or a nightmare, if you aren’t comfortable flying). 

Mokulele flights get canceled or delayed very often, which can be tough to navigate if you are on a limited vacation schedule. But as your itinerary changes, remember that it is even more exhausting for local Molokai residents who are trying to travel for medical reasons, court appointments, rare family gatherings, and other important reasons. 

But, traveling to Molokai does have some perks. There’s no need to go through security, and you can bring liquids as your carry-on. And, if the plane takes you around the “backside” of Molokai, by the sea cliffs and over Kalaupapa, you will see some of the most beautiful sights in the world. 

Ready to learn more about getting to Molokai? Here is the ultimate guide for Molokai flights!

Hotels

There aren’t any big resorts on Molokai, but there is a hotel and several condo options to choose from.  

Hotel Molokai has classic hotel rooms and suites in a bungalow-style setup. There’s an onsite restaurant and oceanfront pool. It’s located in Kaunakakai, a few minutes’ drive from the center of town. 

Molokai Shores is also in Kaunakakai. These condos offer kitchens, which you may enjoy if you stay on Molokai for more than a couple of days (restaurant options are limited on the island). 

Molokai Wavecrest is a condo property east of Kaunakakai and has beautiful grounds. 

Kepuhi Beach is a condo property located on the far west end of Molokai, where things are even more quiet and secluded. This is where to stay if you really want to feel away from it all. 

Overall, the hotels and condos on Molokai are pretty rustic and simple. Hawaii Aloha Travel can help you choose the right accommodations for your trip. 

Activities

Despite Molokai’s quiet atmosphere and slower pace, there are actually many unique sights and activities to enjoy while you’re there. Here are some of the top things to do:

  • Head to Molokai Fish & Dive to book a boat excursion out of Kaunakakai.
  • Travel to the island’s north end to check out the Kalaupapa Overlook and Phallic Rock. 
  • In the past, mule rides have been available to take visitors down the cliff trail into Kalaupapa. While these aren’t currently offered, they may be an option for a future vacation. 
  • Take a guided hike to Halawa Valley Falls on the east end of the island. 
  • Walk along Papohaku Beach, one of Hawaii’s longest beaches.
  • Molokai has special events going on most weekends, from markets and swap meets to cultural events and concerts. 
  • Enjoy live music, cold beer, and yummy food at Paddlers Restaurant and Bar
  • Take a scenic road trip and see some of the island’s historic churches.
  • Visit Purdy’s Natural Macadamia Nuts for a brief tour and to buy fresh nuts and honey. 
  • Spend the morning exploring Kaunakakai town and checking out the unique shops. 
  • Stay up late to buy “Molokai Hot Bread ” from Kanemitsu Bakery. You’ll go through the side alley to order fresh bread after hours. Choose yummy fillings and eat it right away!

Phallic Rock
Phallic Rock

Shopping

Most of Molokai’s shopping options are in Kaunakakai town, though there are a few smaller stores in neighborhoods around the island. 

In Kaunakakai, you’ll find two grocery stores that are likely much smaller than what you’re used to. The good news? You won’t waste a lot of vacation time wandering through the aisles of a grocery store. But, you also won’t have the selection you may hope for. 

But there is more shopping than just groceries in Kaunakakai. There are snack shops, ice cream stores, a bakery, and several clothes boutiques featuring Molokai designs and artistry. 

A Saturday market in town also offers crafts and products from local vendors. These shops and markets are a great way to support Molokai’s economy, connect with residents, and snag a one-of-a-kind keepsake. 

FAQs About Traveling to Molokai

How long should I stay on Molokai?

  • A couple of days on Molokai is enough to see the island and do some of its activities. Some people who want to really get away from it all may stay for a week or more. There are also “snowbirds” who stay for most of the winter. 

Will I feel unwelcome on Molokai?

  • You may encounter people who make you feel unwelcome, often just because they are going about their lives and unconcerned with your vacation. But you may also meet some of the kindest, warmest people ever – especially if you vacation respectfully and are open to learning about the local way of life.

Will I need a rental car on Molokai?

  • Yes, Molokai has no public transportation, so you will need to rent a car. Do this well in advance, as supplies are limited. 

How else should I prepare for my trip?

  • You’ll want to bring cash or plan to use an ATM, as many businesses still don’t take credit cards. You’ll also want to plan to pay more for items than you do on the other islands, as everything is pricier on Molokai. While there, get your dinner early, as many places close early. 

Planning Your Secluded Hawaii Vacation

A trip to Molokai isn’t for everyone. However, anyone traveling to Hawaii can benefit from learning about this beautiful, rural island. Molokai offers a glimpse into what Hawaii would be like without tourism and crowded roads, where cultural traditions are a part of everyday life.

So, if you’d enjoy a relaxed, slow-paced vacation on Molokai, contact Hawaii Aloha Travel to plan a trip that’s mindful of the island’s local values. And, if another island sounds like a better fit, we’ll be glad to help with that too. 

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