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Most visitors land on Maui dreaming of beaches, but the locals will tell you: the island’s heart is found above the shoreline. Welcome to Upcountry Maui, where misty hills give way to pastures, protea farms, and paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture. At its core is Makawao, a charming town perched on the slopes of Haleakalā that blends Hawaiian heritage with a touch of Wild West spirit. This is where artists, ranchers, farmers, and seekers live side by side, surrounded by cool air, rolling hills, and a slower pace of life.
If you're craving something different than resorts and sand, Upcountry delivers—offering crisp mornings, farm-to-table flavors, and a front-row seat to Haleakalā's dramatic landscapes.
Makawao Town: Art, History, and a Hint of Grit
Makawao may be small, but it has character in spades. Once a hub for the island’s ranching community, this former plantation town now draws visitors for its eclectic shops, art galleries, and laid-back energy. The wooden storefronts along Baldwin Avenue have barely changed in decades, housing everything from custom leather goods to handmade jewelry and original paintings by local artists.
Don’t miss T Komoda Store & Bakery, a Maui institution since 1916 known for its legendary cream puffs and stick donuts. Get there early—they sell out fast. Across the street, galleries like Viewpoints and Jordanne Fine Art showcase local landscapes, abstract works, and traditional Hawaiian themes.
While Makawao has embraced its artsy side, it hasn’t forgotten its roots. You’ll still see cowboy boots on the sidewalk, and the annual Makawao Rodeo, held every Fourth of July, is one of the biggest paniolo celebrations in the islands.
Slow Roads and Sweeping Views
Driving through Upcountry is part of the magic. As you rise in elevation, sugarcane fields give way to jacaranda trees and open pastures dotted with goats, cows, and horses. The Kula Highway (Hwy 37) winds through the region, with postcard views at nearly every turn. On clear days, you can see both the North and South Shores at once—proof you’re high on the mountain.
Pull over often. Stop at the Kula Marketplace for locally made jams and gifts, or detour to Grandma’s Coffee House in Keokea for a cup of 100% Maui-grown coffee and banana pancakes under the trees. These aren’t just rest stops—they’re where you meet the real Maui.
Farms, Flowers, and Fresh Air
Upcountry is the island’s agricultural soul. The high elevation and cooler temps make it ideal for growing everything from lavender to strawberries to wine grapes.
- Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm: Wander through terraced fields of blooming lavender, protea, and succulents with bi-coastal views. Guided tours explain the healing and culinary uses of lavender, and the on-site café sells lavender scones, tea, and skincare products.
- Surfing Goat Dairy: A quirky, family-run goat farm offering cheese tastings and farm tours. Kids (and adults) love feeding the goats and sampling fresh chèvre.
- MauiWine: Located at the historic Rose Ranch in Ulupalakua, this winery produces pineapple and traditional grape wines. Sip a flight on the veranda and soak in views of rolling ranchland and the ocean beyond.
Upcountry Farmers Market (Saturdays in Kula): A true community event where locals shop for fresh produce, honey, kombucha, and prepared foods from dozens of small farms and vendors.
Gateway to Haleakalā
Upcountry is the last stop before ascending to Haleakalā National Park, home of the dormant 10,023-foot volcano that shaped the island. While most visitors make the pre-dawn trek to catch sunrise from the summit, Upcountry is also a great base for midday visits and sunset hikes along the crater rim. The views are no less spectacular, and the crowds are thinner.
Tip: If you're staying below the summit, bring layers. It can drop 30 degrees or more as you ascend, and winds near the crater can be brisk.
When to Visit Upcountry
Spring (Mar–May): Ideal for flower blooms, especially at the lavender farm. Jacarandas also bloom during this time, adding bursts of purple to the hillsides.
Summer (Jun–Aug): Clear skies and warm days make for perfect driving and farm-hopping weather. Great for sunsets at Haleakalā.
Fall (Sep–Nov): One of the quietest times to visit—mild weather and fewer crowds.
Winter (Dec–Feb): Crisp mornings and occasional fog give the region a moody, romantic feel. Great time for gallery hopping and coffee shop visits.
Essential Upcountry Tips
- Dress in layers: Mornings and evenings can be chilly. A light jacket or sweater goes a long way.
- Drive slow: Roads are scenic but narrow and winding—especially near Keokea.
- Support local: Many Upcountry businesses are family-owned. From fruit stands to artist studios, your dollars make a real impact.
Reservations: Some spots (like Haleakalā sunrise or MauiWine tours) require advance booking—plan ahead.
Plan Your Upcountry Day (or Stay)
Makawao and the surrounding Upcountry region offer a side of Maui that’s less talked about—but deeply memorable. Whether you're watching the sun set over the slopes of Haleakalā, chatting with a lavender farmer, or grabbing a fresh pastry in a cowboy town, you'll find something grounding here. If you'd like help planning a day trip through Upcountry or pairing it with a Haleakalā visit or farm tour, our team can design a custom itinerary that connects you to the real soul of Maui—up where the clouds brush the mountains.