The Shrimp Truck Treck Tour

 

When Aloha Bruce asked me to join a group of bloggers, journalists and tech gurus on a journey to O’ahu’s North Shore for tour of its famous shrimp trucks on a recent Friday, it was pointless to try to conceal my enthusiasm. I love being on the North Shore, I love shrimp, and I’ll jump at any chance to ride around in a limousine. I didn’t think it necessary to disclose to Aloha Bruce that I’ve suffered from a mild allergy to shrimp and all creatures shelled since my teens. That was simply an aside, an irrelevant caveat to an otherwise plum gig.

A light drizzle was falling as we left Foodland in Kalihi after a quick stop for provisions. Plenty of water and a six pack of Budweiser American Ale to wash down a glut of delectable arthropods were in order. There were concerned rumblings about a rain-soaked afternoon among my fellow travelers, but they were quelled quickly when a large bottle of Skyy vodka was produced (I don’t think it was touched all day, but something about it being along seemed to vanquish any doubts about the potential of the afternoon).

On the way out to the country, everyone in the limo was tweeting furiously, updating followers on the progress of our unlikely assembly of shrimp-hungry correspondents. Everyone but me, that is. I realized quickly how useful social media are, and how addictive. Bruce began shaking and babbling incoherently when he realized that his “twitter phone” was in a bag in the trunk. I am way behind the times.

The tasting began in Haleiwa, at Macky’s Shrimp truck, the first you’ll encounter upon entering Haleiwa town. Macky, whom none of us had ever met, greeted us as we lumbered out of the limo, beaming under a woven safari hat. “Hello! Welcome to Macky’s!” he sung in a thick Taiwanese accent. “You come for some shrimp?”

Cameras were flashing and rolling as we approached the window. I ordered, predictably, the butter garlic shrimp. It was properly butterflied, as opposed to simply cleaned, which made room for a lot of flavor to soak into the flesh of the shrimp, and into mine. Messy is a foregone conclusion when discussing the experience of dining at a shrimp truck. The garlic shrimp was delicious, the spicy shrimp was appropriately incendiary and flavorful. But my favorite, not just at Macky’s, but at the end of the day, was the lemon pepper shrimp. The meat was yellowed with lemon essence and speckled with colorful pepper flakes. Our driver, Johnny, a chatty fellow behind Ray Ban sunglasses, was rendered mute by mouthfuls of caringly prepared sea goodness.

Our next stop was a sort of warren of lunch wagons settled into a grotto abutting the sugarcane field just beyond the tree line. Of four wagons, two were shrimp trucks. Giovanni’s is an icon among roadside feeding posts, and beside it sits Hono’s, staffed by two smiling ladies that are evidently shy about being photographed. The wait at Giovanni’s was longer than expected, but the shrimp offered was duly scrumptious. Someone ordered a pineapple preparation, and it was met with oohs and ahhs by those who sampled it. I tried Hon’s interpretation of “garlic and butter” and was enrapt by the savory goodness of the pile of minced garlic and pepper that topped the steaming mound of shrimp.

It was at this point in our Shrimp Truck Trek (say that three times fast) that the question of peeling facility came about. If the work involved in getting at what you’re eating exceeds the reward of eating it, it’s a problem. It didn’t happen, as all of the trucks we visited had their merits, but when you have a group of analytical minds assembled for the task of assessing something, not all of the input will be positive.

By the time we reached Aloha Chef on the outskirts of Kahuku it had become clear that each truck offers more or less the same fare. Aloha Chef offered a Salt and Pepper Shrimp that appealed to me in particular after so many flavor infused dishes (or paper plates, really). Aloha Chef keeps the heads on the shrimp, much to the delight of the kids covered in butter, garlic and whatever who were assembled at one of the picnic tables in front of the truck. I was amazed that the operation was operated by only one man, but not surprised that there was a bit of a wait. And the tables were wet with rain.

Fumi’s is only a stone’s throw down Kamehameha Highway towards Kahuku. Their setup is more accommodating, a place to hunker down over a plate of steaming crustaceans even during a downpour. Some of the more erudite foodies among us had salient comments about the preparation of the featured fare, but I was happy to have a clean sink for washing up.    

We barked at our driver Johnny to stop at Famous Kahuku Shrimp, although none of us would have objected to pulling the plug and heading for Honolulu. It was a serious, published foodie who made it clear that this was a mission, and that tasting the flavors of the humble, roadside lunch wagon operations was the point. At that point, we were all doing our best to elucidate the relative merits of such establishments, but a gut-full of shrimp will quickly render even the most ardent food fanatic unable.

Our final stop was at the Shrimp Shack, a roadside attraction in Punalu’u  somewhere between the Polynesian Cultural Center and Kahana Bay, that has garnered accolades from travel websites publications and television channels. I’ll say only that my contingent of gifted palates found the fare not only unremarkable, but disappointing. There’s no accounting for taste.

The most striking of our Shrimp Truck Trek, for me, was the fact that most of those trucks parked along the roadside in rural O’ahu are remarkably similar. All are covered with graffiti, all offer the same interpretations of the same dishes, and all are operated by people with accents not common to residents of the North Shore.

The point is that any stop at a shrimp truck on O’ahu’s North Shore is an endeavor worthy of photos, of blogging and of posterity. As a final bit of advice, I’ll suggest bringing your own roll of paper towels and some breath freshener.

Posted by:  Jamie Winpenny

On Twitter:  @doolinjamie

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1 comment August 4th, 2009

Bus Basics for Oahu

TheBus is a great way to get around Oahu without driving.  Not only do you not have to find or pay for parking, but you also can look at the great views along Hawai‘i’s roads instead of the taillights of the car in front of you.  The fare is $2.25 (it increased 25 cents this summer) and correct change is required.  If you need to change buses, request a transfer upon boarding that you can use as the fare on the next bus.  If you plan to take buses frequently, you might consider the four-day visitor pass.  It allows unlimited rides for $25.00.  They are sold at ABC Stores throughout Honolulu.

Most bus stops have a sign that lists the route that stop at that location, although occasionally the sign will be generic.  That is not a problem unless you are trying to catch an express bus — they do not service all the stops.  There must be an Express notation.  Usually there also is a spinning cylinder that shows the express routes and frequency of service.

Drivers will help you find the correct stop if you let them know what you need.  The buses have recorded announcements of major streets and upcoming stops so if you know the intersection of your destination it is easy to know when to get off.  Pull the cord that runs along either side of the bus to signal that you want the next stop.

Seats in the front of the bus are reserved for elderly and handicapped and are usually occupied by those individuals.  Locals tend to go to the back of the bus to stay out of the way because they know where to get off.  That leaves the middle section for tourists and others who might need to hear the driver call their attention.  Occasionally, buses are so full that people need to stand but that is often only for a short distance until seats open up again.

Rather than carrying around bus schedules, I use Google maps to find my route most days.  It has options for driving, walking or mass transit and will give you several choices to choose from for bus connections.  My iPhone uses GPS to chart a bus route from my current location to my destination.  It will tell me where and when to catch which bus.  I am addicted.  I can also check my progress to see if it’s about time to exit the bus — handy on unfamiliar routes or after dark when it is harder to see landmarks.
 

Posted by Cindy Scheopner  Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner

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Add comment August 3rd, 2009

Be careful if you get off the beaten path on O’ahu

There are many not-in-the-brochure s attractions available to an intrepid O’ahu visitor, remote locations that range from verdant, misted mountains to sun baked sea cliffs plunging into crystalline blue depths. Such destinations are certainly worth the effort to find, but they are also worthy of the preparation and vigilant safety awareness that is necessary for any kind of wilderness expedition. For the unprepared, a wander into O’ahu’s hinterlands can be as dangerous as it is rewarding. It’s best to be prepared, whether or not you were a Scout.

There are many dozens of places on O’ahu to get to that are maintained by, but not patrolled by, the City or State agencies that look after them. These places are generally in the mountains or by the sea. There are no rangers or lifeguards, but all are welcome to enjoy the beauty of the locale. Whether in the ocean or in the mountains, a few simple tips can make the experience of an exotic trek easier and safer.

Gear up. Wear your shoes and bring a towel, sunscreen, plenty of water (drinking stream water might seem like a good idea, but it isn’t), lunch and your cell phone. Leave everything else at the hotel. Use your cell phone only in the case of an emergency. Because, You must pay attention to your surroundings. From the deepest valley, highest peak and hidden shore, conditions can and will change quickly. A hike in the sun may become a muddy trudge in the waning twilight and a clear, shimmering tide may quickly turn into a gray, churning threat. It is important to watch your step and not forget that rocks are slippery. And never turn your back on the ocean.

Malama. This one’s simple. The more remote a location is, the more susceptible it is to degradation from alien species, trail entropy and just plain litter. If you’re visiting from abroad, it’s important to clean your hiking shoes before embarking on the trail to ensure that any hitch-hiking seeds from your last hike don’t make their way into the ecosystem you’re entering.
And, of course, it’s important to take out what you take in. That is to say that there won’t be any place to put empty water bottles or food wrappers, so put them back in your pack for disposal at the end of the hike. Most maintained trails have trash cans at their start/finish.

Getting off of the beaten path on O’ahu can make a wonderful Hawaiian vacation even more rewarding. Research your destinations and take the necessary safety precautions.

Posted by: 
Jamie Winpenny    On Twitter:  @doolinjamie

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3 comments July 31st, 2009

Boats in Hawaii get lei too

Last Saturday my boyfriend Rick and I went to a friend’s birthday party in Kanehoe by bus.  On our return, we changed busses at the junction of Kamehameha Highway and Kalanianole Highway with a young back-packing couple from Hungary.

Upon boarding the bus to Kailua (our home), a young man across the aisle noticed our red ball caps that say “Transpac 2009”.  He asked, “Did you come across on a boat?”  Transpac is a sail boat race from Los Angeles to Honolulu that takes place every other year.  It has just concluded for 2009, in fact, the wrap-up party for the 600 local volunteers was Monday.   “Oh no,” I said.  “We just welcomed those who did.”  I figured he was someone who knew that Transpac means the Transpacific Yacht Race.  It has been going on since 1906, after all. “So you hosted a boat?” he asked.  At this point, I knew he had participated in some manner.  “Hosting a boat” is when local yacht clubs or other groups welcome a boat and its crew as they finish the race.  People keep track of exactly where the boats are as they cross the ocean and when your boat hits the 100-mile mark they call everyone to get the party ready (day or night).  Details differ but they always involve leis and Mai-Tais.

The young man on the bus had come across on a boat in the race and was leaving the next day for the return voyage.  He was going to Kailua from Honolulu to try to find a friend before leaving the island.  He and Rick had a discussion about sails and weather for the rest of the (brief) bus trip.  I can hand out Mai-Tais and pretty much stay out of trouble on a boat but Rick is the sailor in our partnership.

I did enjoy seeing the really cool boats as they arrived and along the dock at the Ala Wai boat harbor in Honolulu.  Everyone has such a good time and they are all so happy to arrive in Hawai‘ii  I wasn’t surprised at the abundance of good spirits, or the lei that seem to mark every significant occasion in Hawai‘i.  But I have to admit the boat lei caught me off guard.  Hosting party people make a very large lei that they drape around the front of the boat (yes, I know it’s called a bow).

This year, a really fast boat made by Alfa Romeo zoomed across the ocean in record time.  We got a peek at it while it was docked at the Aloha Tower.  The race is over until 2011, but next summer there is a race called the Pacific Cup.  It is also in July and I’m looking forward to finding out what it is like.

Posted by Cindy Scheopner  Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner

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Transpac race:    http://www.transpacrace.com

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7 comments July 30th, 2009

You’ll hear a lot of Hawaiian names when you visit the Islands

Throughout Hawaii you will encounter the lovely, lilting sounds of pure Hawaiian names.  Don’t be surprised to meet a beautiful, blond, Scandinavian-looking woman whose name is “Leilani,” or an African-American man named “Kalani.”   Many, many of us who live here, regardless of our heritages, like the sound of Hawaiian names and apply them to our own offspring.

There actually are two kinds of Hawaiian names.  Traditional, or “authentic” names such as Ku`oko`a (koo-oh’-koh-ah), meaning “independent,” were originally coined for a child with care and perceived aptness.  (There were no surnames in the early days.)  When people from other lands began arriving and settling in the islands, their given names were translated into Hawaii adaptations. “Kimo” is the Hawaiian version of Jim; “Malia” is Maria or Mary.  These are Hawaiian phonetic interpretations of foreign (to Hawaiians) names.

You certainly will be introduced to a local person with a seemingly unpronounceable name such as Hanauhoulani (ha-now’-ho-oo-la’-nee).  Just deal with it as well as you can.  Its bearer will understand; is used to the stumbling just as he or she is with residents who were born here.   Usually (but not always), such names are shortened for convenience; in this case to “Hana” or “Lani” depending on the sex of the bearer.  (Most Leilanis – the most common given name for girls in Hawaii — are called either “Lei” or “Lani.”) What you never encounter in Hawaii is a case such as one that reaches us from New Zealand. Parents actually named their daughter “Talula Does The Hula From Hawaii.”

The little girl, who now is nine years old, hates the name and refuses to use it or tell anyone — even close friends — it exists.  Then her parents split and a custody battle waged.  A judge ordered her to be made a ward of the court until her name was changed.  Her new name is being kept secret in order to protect the girl’s privacy.

We take naming a little more seriously here.

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Add comment July 29th, 2009

Riding the Bus is a great way to see Oahu on your vacation

 

I’m going to tell you about a chance encounter on a city bus with a young man preparing to sail from Hawai‘i to California and a couple from Hungary camping their way along the shore of Oahu.   But first, I have to introduce someone and tell you a little about me.  When I am not working or in class at UH, I am usually with my companion, Rick.  I call him my boyfriend but our kids think that sounds weird for a couple in their 50’s.  They said I should make up a different word.  I haven’t come up with anything yet, so let me know if you have any ideas.

Anyway, Rick and I moved to Oahu last summer and we still don’t have a car.  We have a boat but no car.  We travel on land by foot or by TheBus (the city bus system on Oahu).  Last weekend we went to a birthday party for a friend in Kaneohe.  That is a town right next to Kailua, where we live.  Both are on the windward side of Oahu.  Although they are next to one another, the bus connections are a little odd.  There’s no direct shuttle but there are a couple of ways to get back and forth and we usually just wing it by waiting at a stop where several buses pass and working out the route depending on which bus we catch. 

It is very common to see tourists on busses in our area because the beaches are fabulous and the bus connections to Honolulu are frequent and inexpensive (more about that later).  The bus drivers are almost always very helpful and so are fellow passengers.  On our return after the party, we got off the 55 bus and were walking to the stop to transfer to the next bus to Kailua.  A couple carrying backpacks and bedrolls got off at the same place.  It was obvious they needed to get to the same stop we did, because that was the next major transfer point.  I waved to show them there was a walkway in the median of Kamehameha highway.  We hadn’t seen it on our first couple of trips and attempted to walk along the roadway, which is a very bad idea in the dark because the cars can’t see you.

They had taken the 55 (also called the “Circle Island”) bus along the North Shore to Kaneohe and now wanted to finish the trip around the Mokapu‘u point to Hanauma Bay to go snorkeling.  It can be done, but not after 7 pm because the bus doesn’t go that far on the late night runs.  They planned to camp on the beach at Kailua and get back on the bus in the morning for the rest of the trip.  We helped them catch the 56 bus into Kailua (the 57 would also work) and pointed out an all-night grocery store and the direction of the beach.

TheBus is a great way to get around during your Hawaii Vacation and a wonderful way see all the island has to offer and meet interesting people. Our new friends had a nice tour of the top of Oahu for the price of two bus fares each: $4.50 ($2.25 each bus).

Posted by Cindy

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7 comments July 28th, 2009

Exploring Waianae Coast on your Oahu Hawaii Vacation

 There’s a part of Oahu that very few tourists ever get to experience, Waianae on the westernmost part of Oahu. We recently took a ride out to this part of the island and were reminded just how awesome it is on the Leeward side. The major reason many folks don’t venture out to the Leeward side is the distance from the usual tourist hub of Waikiki. However, that shouldn’t discourage you; in fact this is what makes this part of the island such a wonderful place to visit. There are a couple of resorts nearby including the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa at Ko Olina and Makaha Resort & Golf Club. Both of these properties are good choices if you plan to stay outside of Waikiki.

The Waianae coast stretches 20 miles from the town of Nanakuli to Makua Beach. A nonstop ride from Waikiki takes about 1 and 1/2 hours. The main attractions on this side of the island are the beaches, but you’ll also find some great local plate lunch spots including our favorite, the Maile Deli located in Maili. The Maile Deli is reasonably priced and famous for their gravy and burger bowl (aka “loco moco”). If that’s “over the top” for you there’s Sun Sushi, a great sushi takeout place with a few tables. The sushi there is fresh, tasty, and nicely prepared.

As mentioned, the beaches are a main attraction on the Waianae coast. The ride up the coast is magnificent and you can sample some of the beautiful beaches along the way. During the winter months, the surf may be intense so you may wish to visit during the summer months when the surf is calmer. We decided to ride all the way up to the end of the coast to Makua Beach and work our way back. Makua Beach is tucked away behind the mountains and good for a little private time with that special someone. Unfortunately, it is not a good place for recreational swimming so we just enjoyed a picnic lunch there.
 
Our next stop was Makaha Beach. This beach is wide and not too crowded; the water was perfect for swimming. There’s a wonderful beach park there with beautiful views of the mountains. We then went to Maili Beach Park. We were lucky to go during a festival and got to see wonderful local handmade items for sale. Although we did some sunbathing; short breaks made it a bit hazardous for swimming. However, Maili Beach is great for boogie boarding. 

 

Our last stop was Pokai Beach Park. We spent the rest of the day here because it’s perfect for swimming. A protective breakwater makes Pokai Beach Park the safest place on the Waianae coast to swim. This is the ideal place to enjoy a day at the beach if you have children. I can recommend many other beaches on the Waianae coast, including Ohikilolo and Nanakuli.

A trip to the Leeward side of Oahu is certainly worth your time; there is so much to see and experience and should be included in your Oahu vacation plans. If you need more information about the Leeward side of Oahu or would like to plan a day on the Waianae coast, please give me a call at 1-800-843-8771 extension 22 and I will be happy to hook you up with everything you need.

 

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1 comment July 27th, 2009

Construction is in full swing at the Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club

The Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club is going through a major renovation but if you can tolerate a few inconveniences that shouldn’t keep you away from this great property. The work began on June 1st and includes over $50 million worth of refurbishments to entire property. The resort will remain open and construction will be performed in phases to minimize any impact on guests. Additionally, the hotel is offering "Discover Kauai" rates so this is your chance to get a 5 star experience at 3 star prices. “We’re excited about all the improvements we have in store for our guests,” said Elliot Mills, general manager of Kauai Marriott Resort. “While we undergo this transformation, we are still open and ready to serve guests with the service and hospitality they expect from a Marriott Resort in Hawai‘i.”

The property is expansive, with over 800 acres and includes a golf course on the premises. One of the wonderful things I love about this property is the protected shoreline that is home to the majestic Kalapaki Bay and is perfect for swimming. There are no renovations planned for this part of the property so you can enjoy it to its fullest extent. Additionally, the huge pool at the resort will remain open during construction.  There’s a wonderful halau (school) that holds practices on the property as well as the "Hawaii Alive" hula and Polynesian dance review that has regular performances. You can really get the sense of the local spirit of Kauai when you watch the hula performances. The last time I was on island I caught this Hula Halau and it brought tears to my eyes; very genuine and unique, one of a kind.

All of the 356 guest rooms will be completely redone by August 31st to reflect a more contemporary ambience, influenced by the tropical Hawaiian setting. The interior design concept includes a crisp, neutral palette with crimson accents, inspired by the red ginger plants throughout the resort’s lush gardens. Other upgrades include a flat screen television and modern bathroom fixtures and vanity.

I have had a couple of guests stay here already during the construction, all without incindent and happy with the experience. If you are interested in having a once in a lifetime 5 star experience without the 5 star price, please contact Aloha Bruce at 1-800-843-8771, and let me make your dreams come true!

Posted by: AlohaBruce

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3 comments July 21st, 2009

A Special evening with Music Legend Uncle Bill Tapia

Last Thursday we went to see Makana at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel’s Monarch Room for the second time. We were invited back after the re-opening last week and were asked to bring several of our friends and agents to the show. The concert was even better the second time around and all those that attended really enjoyed themselves and had a wonderful experience.
 
The historic value of the Monarch Room is attracting many legends back to this special place. One such legend is Bill Tapia. Uncle Bill wanted to come back because he actually opened the Monarch Room back in 1927. Rather than tell Uncle Bill’s story that has been done many times and by much more qualified writers than myself, I thought I would share a little bit about how he is now and our experience with him last week.
 
At 102 years old, Uncle Bill is more active than any other person I’ve ever known his age. He’s alert and still very dedicated to his music. He showed up before the concert at the Mai Tai Bar to meet Makana and hang out. He was accompanied by a small entourage of people including Michi Moore who will be accompanying him to Japan where Uncle Bill will be performing at a couple of concerts. Michi was excited to show us the ukulele Uncle Bill had given her. She didn’t know the history behind it but was honored to receive it. Yaling and I were able to take a couple of pictures with him and share a story or two about some musical venues I’ve seen him in over the years.

Later we were invited to join Uncle Bill at Duc’s Bistro after the concert so we headed over to Chinatown where Uncle Bill was to play a little  (see the video below) and have some dinner. When we got to Duc’s Uncle Bill was just finishing up but agreed to play a couple more songs, Hapa Haole Girl and King Kamehameha. This was a special moment and we were so honored and touched to be in his presence and to enjoy this wonderful legend’s music once again.
 
As mentioned, Uncle Bill will be going to Japan for an upcoming tour. At his age they are very careful to make sure that he gets daily medical attention. Upon arriving in Japan, Uncle Bill will see a doctor who will measure all his vital signs and make sure he is in good health. He will continue to receive this medical attention before each performance while he is in Japan.

I think we can all take a lesson from Uncle Bill Tapia and the importance of loving what we do as a way of staying engaged in life. I truly believe that it’s his music and the love of all that is around him that keeps him going every day. 

 

 

Posted by: AlohaBruce

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1 comment July 20th, 2009

Irishman in Chinatown

I’ve been a professional musician in Honolulu and on the mainland for nearly twenty years, and have always enjoyed the relative music industry luxury of being part of a “house band.” In recent years, I’ve been fortunate enough to be a part of a remarkable artistic renaissance in the Chinatown area, which has been delegated as Honolulu’s official Arts District. Home base for me is O’Toole’s Irish Pub.

Owned by a pair of Boston area transplants, O’Toole’s is one of three Irish pubs operated by the two. They are committed to providing free, live music every night at each of their venues. This means that they support dozens of “house bands” and cater to patrons who seek them out. O’Toole’s Irish Pub is certainly the most authentic Irish pub on O’ahu, situated in an historic building on Nu’uanu Avenue, only steps away from the busy waters of Honolulu Harbor. My band has to wait each Saturday night until the Pride of Hawai’i cruise ship blows its bone shaking departure horn before we start to play.

The pub is split into two rooms, separated by a spectacular red brick arch, an architectural feature that was part of the historic building’s original construction. It’s easy to imagine mustachioed seafarers and whalers of bygone centuries cavorting under that arch while one gazes into the shimmering waters of the harbor during a lazy pau hana (“done work”) happy hour. The selection of fine Irish brews and spirits is unparalleled in Honolulu.

And while O’Toole’s is a great place to spend an afternoon of sensible supping, the live music featured on the stage each night attracts an eclectic population of regulars. The establishment has become a sort of home away from home for many in the military in Honolulu, men and women soldiers and sailors hungry for live music that transcends the familiarity of their MP3 players. Every “house band” that plays at O’Toole’s enjoys a regular following of eager fans in an out of the service. The talent and hard work of the bands that play there are worthy of the attention paid to their music.

Possibly the best thing about O’Toole’s Irish Pub is the fact that it’s part of the Chinatown Arts District, so it’s easy to plan a night of live music and gallery wandering in Chinatown around a night at the pub. I’d suggest making it a Saturday, so you can catch my Celtic rock band, Doolin Rakes.

O’Toole’s Irish Pub
903 Nu’uanu Avenue
808.536.4138
Irishpubhawaii.com 

 

Posted by Jamie Winpenny
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Add comment July 17th, 2009

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