Hawaii Polo party in the country

The hot discussion topic that dominated conversation as I headed out to the North Shore with AlohaBruce and Yaling was Hurricane Felicia. When I suggested that after nearly seventeen years without a serious hurricane in Hawai’i, we might be do for one, they both bristled. “Don’t say that!” they protested. At any rate, Felicia has since been downgraded to a tropical storm, a tropical depression, a tropical malaise, and, finally, a tropical ennui. As soon as we crested the hill heading down to the Mokuleia Polo Grounds, any thoughts of inclement weather fluttered away on brisk trade winds.

I had once again stumbled into day-long adventure with AlohaBruce. This time the mission was to take in the experience of the Mokuleia Polo Grounds , the strange and wonderful mix of down home barbequing, country club champagne flutes, ladies in big hats and a dozen frothing polo ponies thundering past with men swinging long mallets on their backs.

We were invited by the Equus Hotel, which had provided a fine spread of wine and tasty comestibles in a private area at midfield. Dozens of cars lined the polo pitch on both sides as a smoldering breeze brought savory smells coming from the grills on the other side. And the occasional whiff of horse manure. It was divine.

The format for the day’s competition was a handful of teams playing in a round-robin tournament, with each match lasting two six-minute “chuckers.” The easiest way to explain a chucker is to compare it to a quarter in football or basketball. I had secretly expected the matched to be tame affairs, more for show than for true competition. And I couldn’t have been more wrong. The players and their mounts chased the white wooden ball all over the pitch, which is a few hundred yards long, their horses colliding as mallets flashed. Every one of the players was out there to win, and the polo ponies were clearly every bit as intent as the riders. Those horses are magnificent beasts whose dignity is not diminished by the fact that they have no compunction about pooping in front of everyone.

And fans of the sport can be as equally passionate as the riders. One excitable lady in a big straw hat was evidently the wife of one of the riders and a rider herself. She cheered and jeered with an exuberance that could rival that of any Chicago Cubs fan in the bleachers at Wrigley Field.

As the day turned to late afternoon and the tournament ended, the mood became considerably more festive. A long time drummer friend of mine was on hand with his classic rock band (I’m constantly running into fellow musicians, even at a polo match way out in the country). There was a brisk business at Ed’s Polo Bar, and everyone was clearly feeling good. As the sun dipped behind the Waianae Mountains, we decided to head back to Honolulu.

My overall impression of the whole day was that a day at the polo fields (there’s another polo field in Waimanalo) is a brilliant was to spend an afternoon. I got the feeling that most of the people there on Sunday were there more for the atmosphere than for the spectacle of the sport. Whatever the case may be there is plenty of both at the Mokuleia Polo Grounds.
 

Posted by:  Jamie Winpenny
On Twitter:  @doolinjamie
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3 comments August 11th, 2009

Enchanting Hawaii Evenings

 One of my absolute favorite things about Hawai‘i happens each evening and I try never to miss it.  It is the ability to enjoy sunset outside.  It seems like such a small thing and easily taken for granted on this balmy island.  But for most of my life, it was not possible.  I have lived in five states in the south and midwest.  For much of the year, it is either too hot, too cold or too windy to sit comfortably outside for extended periods.
 
And then there are the unwelcome guests.
 
A friend tried to have an outdoor wedding reception in central Texas.  Despite sprays and candles, dive-bombing mosquitoes quickly drove guests to the safety of their cars.  I kid you not, the mosquitoes were so large you could feel them land on your arm for refueling.  It was like the Hitchcock movie "The Birds" with only slightly smaller winged actors.  Last summer before we left Colorado, the impact was much the same.  We had a deck with a view of the mountains that would seem perfect for cocktails or dinner.  Unfortunately, the mosquitoes were smaller but just as persistent as their southern cousins.  It was impossible to be outside at dusk without a chemical coating, which makes food and drink somewhat unappealing.  The fact that some of them were carrying West Nile disease made me consider ordering a hazmat suit.
 
There are mosquitoes on forested trails, especially near water.  But evening is an opportunity to get outside on Oahu.  On Honolulu streets, people who have changed business attire for shorts and T-shirts jog or walk their dogs.  I watch children in the play area outside my kitchen window burning off steam before dinner.  When we go out for pau hana (happy hour) or dinner, I make it a point to sit at the may outside lanais (patios) available at island restaurants.  It seems like a stolen treasure to relax without searing heat, blowing dust, or marauding mosquitoes.

Locals here complain when the temperatures are hotter than usual, or it is cool due to rain, or the refreshing trade winds depart.  It is true that I feel those variations as well.  But evenings on Oahu have all fallen within the fabulous range for a solid 12 months now.  A bad evening here is better than the best conditions anywhere else.
 
Excuse me - I hear a martini and a lanai calling my name!
 

Posted by Cindy Scheopner  Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner 

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Add comment August 10th, 2009

Hawaii Camping Caution

My recent encounter with a couple from Hungary planning to camp across Oahu reminded me of how different camping is in Hawai‘i from Europe or the mainland.  Camping is a popular way to vacation in Europe and beaches are equipped for fairly comfortable family stays.  Many of us probably have memories of camping in national parks on the mainland, as well (mine involve a night at the Grand Canyon that was far colder than I thought it would EVER be in Arizona).  It is an inexpensive family activity and a good way to get close to nature when campsites are properly equipped.

 However, I would not recommend planning to camp for an entire vacation in Hawai‘i.  There are limited campsites run by the city, county or on Oahu.  You must apply for the beach permit in person and almost all of the sites are closed for two or three days each week..  In addition to the difficulty of guaranteeing a camping spot for the entire time you plan to spend on the island (and the expense of camping equipment), there are safety concerns.  Like any major population center, Hawai‘i has homeless people and problems with petty theft and break-ins.  The safety and quality of life here is far better than other urban centers (Honolulu consistently ranks at or near the bottom on rankings of crime rates) but both homelessness and theft are more pronounced in beach parks. Also, the park bathrooms are adequate for day trips but nothing like the full shower facilities provided at most national parks.

There is no reason to avoid any of the parks, but they are less attractive options as basic lodging than local hotels.  That said, camping for a day or two as part of a trip to the neighbor islands might be a fun adventure option during a vacation.  This distinction is one of the many excellent reasons to consult with local travel agents when planning your visit.
 

Posted by Cindy Scheopner  Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner 

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Add comment August 6th, 2009

The Shrimp Truck Treck Tour

 

When Aloha Bruce asked me to join a group of bloggers, journalists and tech gurus on a journey to O’ahu’s North Shore for tour of its famous shrimp trucks on a recent Friday, it was pointless to try to conceal my enthusiasm. I love being on the North Shore, I love shrimp, and I’ll jump at any chance to ride around in a limousine. I didn’t think it necessary to disclose to Aloha Bruce that I’ve suffered from a mild allergy to shrimp and all creatures shelled since my teens. That was simply an aside, an irrelevant caveat to an otherwise plum gig.

A light drizzle was falling as we left Foodland in Kalihi after a quick stop for provisions. Plenty of water and a six pack of Budweiser American Ale to wash down a glut of delectable arthropods were in order. There were concerned rumblings about a rain-soaked afternoon among my fellow travelers, but they were quelled quickly when a large bottle of Skyy vodka was produced (I don’t think it was touched all day, but something about it being along seemed to vanquish any doubts about the potential of the afternoon).

On the way out to the country, everyone in the limo was tweeting furiously, updating followers on the progress of our unlikely assembly of shrimp-hungry correspondents. Everyone but me, that is. I realized quickly how useful social media are, and how addictive. Bruce began shaking and babbling incoherently when he realized that his “twitter phone” was in a bag in the trunk. I am way behind the times.

The tasting began in Haleiwa, at Macky’s Shrimp truck, the first you’ll encounter upon entering Haleiwa town. Macky, whom none of us had ever met, greeted us as we lumbered out of the limo, beaming under a woven safari hat. “Hello! Welcome to Macky’s!” he sung in a thick Taiwanese accent. “You come for some shrimp?”

Cameras were flashing and rolling as we approached the window. I ordered, predictably, the butter garlic shrimp. It was properly butterflied, as opposed to simply cleaned, which made room for a lot of flavor to soak into the flesh of the shrimp, and into mine. Messy is a foregone conclusion when discussing the experience of dining at a shrimp truck. The garlic shrimp was delicious, the spicy shrimp was appropriately incendiary and flavorful. But my favorite, not just at Macky’s, but at the end of the day, was the lemon pepper shrimp. The meat was yellowed with lemon essence and speckled with colorful pepper flakes. Our driver, Johnny, a chatty fellow behind Ray Ban sunglasses, was rendered mute by mouthfuls of caringly prepared sea goodness.

Our next stop was a sort of warren of lunch wagons settled into a grotto abutting the sugarcane field just beyond the tree line. Of four wagons, two were shrimp trucks. Giovanni’s is an icon among roadside feeding posts, and beside it sits Hono’s, staffed by two smiling ladies that are evidently shy about being photographed. The wait at Giovanni’s was longer than expected, but the shrimp offered was duly scrumptious. Someone ordered a pineapple preparation, and it was met with oohs and ahhs by those who sampled it. I tried Hon’s interpretation of “garlic and butter” and was enrapt by the savory goodness of the pile of minced garlic and pepper that topped the steaming mound of shrimp.

It was at this point in our Shrimp Truck Trek (say that three times fast) that the question of peeling facility came about. If the work involved in getting at what you’re eating exceeds the reward of eating it, it’s a problem. It didn’t happen, as all of the trucks we visited had their merits, but when you have a group of analytical minds assembled for the task of assessing something, not all of the input will be positive.

By the time we reached Aloha Chef on the outskirts of Kahuku it had become clear that each truck offers more or less the same fare. Aloha Chef offered a Salt and Pepper Shrimp that appealed to me in particular after so many flavor infused dishes (or paper plates, really). Aloha Chef keeps the heads on the shrimp, much to the delight of the kids covered in butter, garlic and whatever who were assembled at one of the picnic tables in front of the truck. I was amazed that the operation was operated by only one man, but not surprised that there was a bit of a wait. And the tables were wet with rain.

Fumi’s is only a stone’s throw down Kamehameha Highway towards Kahuku. Their setup is more accommodating, a place to hunker down over a plate of steaming crustaceans even during a downpour. Some of the more erudite foodies among us had salient comments about the preparation of the featured fare, but I was happy to have a clean sink for washing up.    

We barked at our driver Johnny to stop at Famous Kahuku Shrimp, although none of us would have objected to pulling the plug and heading for Honolulu. It was a serious, published foodie who made it clear that this was a mission, and that tasting the flavors of the humble, roadside lunch wagon operations was the point. At that point, we were all doing our best to elucidate the relative merits of such establishments, but a gut-full of shrimp will quickly render even the most ardent food fanatic unable.

Our final stop was at the Shrimp Shack, a roadside attraction in Punalu’u  somewhere between the Polynesian Cultural Center and Kahana Bay, that has garnered accolades from travel websites publications and television channels. I’ll say only that my contingent of gifted palates found the fare not only unremarkable, but disappointing. There’s no accounting for taste.

The most striking of our Shrimp Truck Trek, for me, was the fact that most of those trucks parked along the roadside in rural O’ahu are remarkably similar. All are covered with graffiti, all offer the same interpretations of the same dishes, and all are operated by people with accents not common to residents of the North Shore.

The point is that any stop at a shrimp truck on O’ahu’s North Shore is an endeavor worthy of photos, of blogging and of posterity. As a final bit of advice, I’ll suggest bringing your own roll of paper towels and some breath freshener.

Posted by:  Jamie Winpenny

On Twitter:  @doolinjamie

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1 comment August 4th, 2009

Bus Basics for Oahu

TheBus is a great way to get around Oahu without driving.  Not only do you not have to find or pay for parking, but you also can look at the great views along Hawai‘i’s roads instead of the taillights of the car in front of you.  The fare is $2.25 (it increased 25 cents this summer) and correct change is required.  If you need to change buses, request a transfer upon boarding that you can use as the fare on the next bus.  If you plan to take buses frequently, you might consider the four-day visitor pass.  It allows unlimited rides for $25.00.  They are sold at ABC Stores throughout Honolulu.

Most bus stops have a sign that lists the route that stop at that location, although occasionally the sign will be generic.  That is not a problem unless you are trying to catch an express bus — they do not service all the stops.  There must be an Express notation.  Usually there also is a spinning cylinder that shows the express routes and frequency of service.

Drivers will help you find the correct stop if you let them know what you need.  The buses have recorded announcements of major streets and upcoming stops so if you know the intersection of your destination it is easy to know when to get off.  Pull the cord that runs along either side of the bus to signal that you want the next stop.

Seats in the front of the bus are reserved for elderly and handicapped and are usually occupied by those individuals.  Locals tend to go to the back of the bus to stay out of the way because they know where to get off.  That leaves the middle section for tourists and others who might need to hear the driver call their attention.  Occasionally, buses are so full that people need to stand but that is often only for a short distance until seats open up again.

Rather than carrying around bus schedules, I use Google maps to find my route most days.  It has options for driving, walking or mass transit and will give you several choices to choose from for bus connections.  My iPhone uses GPS to chart a bus route from my current location to my destination.  It will tell me where and when to catch which bus.  I am addicted.  I can also check my progress to see if it’s about time to exit the bus — handy on unfamiliar routes or after dark when it is harder to see landmarks.
 

Posted by Cindy Scheopner  Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner

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Add comment August 3rd, 2009

Be careful if you get off the beaten path on O’ahu

There are many not-in-the-brochure s attractions available to an intrepid O’ahu visitor, remote locations that range from verdant, misted mountains to sun baked sea cliffs plunging into crystalline blue depths. Such destinations are certainly worth the effort to find, but they are also worthy of the preparation and vigilant safety awareness that is necessary for any kind of wilderness expedition. For the unprepared, a wander into O’ahu’s hinterlands can be as dangerous as it is rewarding. It’s best to be prepared, whether or not you were a Scout.

There are many dozens of places on O’ahu to get to that are maintained by, but not patrolled by, the City or State agencies that look after them. These places are generally in the mountains or by the sea. There are no rangers or lifeguards, but all are welcome to enjoy the beauty of the locale. Whether in the ocean or in the mountains, a few simple tips can make the experience of an exotic trek easier and safer.

Gear up. Wear your shoes and bring a towel, sunscreen, plenty of water (drinking stream water might seem like a good idea, but it isn’t), lunch and your cell phone. Leave everything else at the hotel. Use your cell phone only in the case of an emergency. Because, You must pay attention to your surroundings. From the deepest valley, highest peak and hidden shore, conditions can and will change quickly. A hike in the sun may become a muddy trudge in the waning twilight and a clear, shimmering tide may quickly turn into a gray, churning threat. It is important to watch your step and not forget that rocks are slippery. And never turn your back on the ocean.

Malama. This one’s simple. The more remote a location is, the more susceptible it is to degradation from alien species, trail entropy and just plain litter. If you’re visiting from abroad, it’s important to clean your hiking shoes before embarking on the trail to ensure that any hitch-hiking seeds from your last hike don’t make their way into the ecosystem you’re entering.
And, of course, it’s important to take out what you take in. That is to say that there won’t be any place to put empty water bottles or food wrappers, so put them back in your pack for disposal at the end of the hike. Most maintained trails have trash cans at their start/finish.

Getting off of the beaten path on O’ahu can make a wonderful Hawaiian vacation even more rewarding. Research your destinations and take the necessary safety precautions.

Posted by: 
Jamie Winpenny    On Twitter:  @doolinjamie

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3 comments July 31st, 2009

Boats in Hawaii get lei too

Last Saturday my boyfriend Rick and I went to a friend’s birthday party in Kanehoe by bus.  On our return, we changed busses at the junction of Kamehameha Highway and Kalanianole Highway with a young back-packing couple from Hungary.

Upon boarding the bus to Kailua (our home), a young man across the aisle noticed our red ball caps that say “Transpac 2009”.  He asked, “Did you come across on a boat?”  Transpac is a sail boat race from Los Angeles to Honolulu that takes place every other year.  It has just concluded for 2009, in fact, the wrap-up party for the 600 local volunteers was Monday.   “Oh no,” I said.  “We just welcomed those who did.”  I figured he was someone who knew that Transpac means the Transpacific Yacht Race.  It has been going on since 1906, after all. “So you hosted a boat?” he asked.  At this point, I knew he had participated in some manner.  “Hosting a boat” is when local yacht clubs or other groups welcome a boat and its crew as they finish the race.  People keep track of exactly where the boats are as they cross the ocean and when your boat hits the 100-mile mark they call everyone to get the party ready (day or night).  Details differ but they always involve leis and Mai-Tais.

The young man on the bus had come across on a boat in the race and was leaving the next day for the return voyage.  He was going to Kailua from Honolulu to try to find a friend before leaving the island.  He and Rick had a discussion about sails and weather for the rest of the (brief) bus trip.  I can hand out Mai-Tais and pretty much stay out of trouble on a boat but Rick is the sailor in our partnership.

I did enjoy seeing the really cool boats as they arrived and along the dock at the Ala Wai boat harbor in Honolulu.  Everyone has such a good time and they are all so happy to arrive in Hawai‘ii  I wasn’t surprised at the abundance of good spirits, or the lei that seem to mark every significant occasion in Hawai‘i.  But I have to admit the boat lei caught me off guard.  Hosting party people make a very large lei that they drape around the front of the boat (yes, I know it’s called a bow).

This year, a really fast boat made by Alfa Romeo zoomed across the ocean in record time.  We got a peek at it while it was docked at the Aloha Tower.  The race is over until 2011, but next summer there is a race called the Pacific Cup.  It is also in July and I’m looking forward to finding out what it is like.

Posted by Cindy Scheopner  Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner

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Transpac race:    http://www.transpacrace.com

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7 comments July 30th, 2009

You’ll hear a lot of Hawaiian names when you visit the Islands

Throughout Hawaii you will encounter the lovely, lilting sounds of pure Hawaiian names.  Don’t be surprised to meet a beautiful, blond, Scandinavian-looking woman whose name is “Leilani,” or an African-American man named “Kalani.”   Many, many of us who live here, regardless of our heritages, like the sound of Hawaiian names and apply them to our own offspring.

There actually are two kinds of Hawaiian names.  Traditional, or “authentic” names such as Ku`oko`a (koo-oh’-koh-ah), meaning “independent,” were originally coined for a child with care and perceived aptness.  (There were no surnames in the early days.)  When people from other lands began arriving and settling in the islands, their given names were translated into Hawaii adaptations. “Kimo” is the Hawaiian version of Jim; “Malia” is Maria or Mary.  These are Hawaiian phonetic interpretations of foreign (to Hawaiians) names.

You certainly will be introduced to a local person with a seemingly unpronounceable name such as Hanauhoulani (ha-now’-ho-oo-la’-nee).  Just deal with it as well as you can.  Its bearer will understand; is used to the stumbling just as he or she is with residents who were born here.   Usually (but not always), such names are shortened for convenience; in this case to “Hana” or “Lani” depending on the sex of the bearer.  (Most Leilanis – the most common given name for girls in Hawaii — are called either “Lei” or “Lani.”) What you never encounter in Hawaii is a case such as one that reaches us from New Zealand. Parents actually named their daughter “Talula Does The Hula From Hawaii.”

The little girl, who now is nine years old, hates the name and refuses to use it or tell anyone — even close friends — it exists.  Then her parents split and a custody battle waged.  A judge ordered her to be made a ward of the court until her name was changed.  Her new name is being kept secret in order to protect the girl’s privacy.

We take naming a little more seriously here.

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Add comment July 29th, 2009

Riding the Bus is a great way to see Oahu on your vacation

 

I’m going to tell you about a chance encounter on a city bus with a young man preparing to sail from Hawai‘i to California and a couple from Hungary camping their way along the shore of Oahu.   But first, I have to introduce someone and tell you a little about me.  When I am not working or in class at UH, I am usually with my companion, Rick.  I call him my boyfriend but our kids think that sounds weird for a couple in their 50’s.  They said I should make up a different word.  I haven’t come up with anything yet, so let me know if you have any ideas.

Anyway, Rick and I moved to Oahu last summer and we still don’t have a car.  We have a boat but no car.  We travel on land by foot or by TheBus (the city bus system on Oahu).  Last weekend we went to a birthday party for a friend in Kaneohe.  That is a town right next to Kailua, where we live.  Both are on the windward side of Oahu.  Although they are next to one another, the bus connections are a little odd.  There’s no direct shuttle but there are a couple of ways to get back and forth and we usually just wing it by waiting at a stop where several buses pass and working out the route depending on which bus we catch. 

It is very common to see tourists on busses in our area because the beaches are fabulous and the bus connections to Honolulu are frequent and inexpensive (more about that later).  The bus drivers are almost always very helpful and so are fellow passengers.  On our return after the party, we got off the 55 bus and were walking to the stop to transfer to the next bus to Kailua.  A couple carrying backpacks and bedrolls got off at the same place.  It was obvious they needed to get to the same stop we did, because that was the next major transfer point.  I waved to show them there was a walkway in the median of Kamehameha highway.  We hadn’t seen it on our first couple of trips and attempted to walk along the roadway, which is a very bad idea in the dark because the cars can’t see you.

They had taken the 55 (also called the “Circle Island”) bus along the North Shore to Kaneohe and now wanted to finish the trip around the Mokapu‘u point to Hanauma Bay to go snorkeling.  It can be done, but not after 7 pm because the bus doesn’t go that far on the late night runs.  They planned to camp on the beach at Kailua and get back on the bus in the morning for the rest of the trip.  We helped them catch the 56 bus into Kailua (the 57 would also work) and pointed out an all-night grocery store and the direction of the beach.

TheBus is a great way to get around during your Hawaii Vacation and a wonderful way see all the island has to offer and meet interesting people. Our new friends had a nice tour of the top of Oahu for the price of two bus fares each: $4.50 ($2.25 each bus).

Posted by Cindy

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7 comments July 28th, 2009

Exploring Waianae Coast on your Oahu Hawaii Vacation

 There’s a part of Oahu that very few tourists ever get to experience, Waianae on the westernmost part of Oahu. We recently took a ride out to this part of the island and were reminded just how awesome it is on the Leeward side. The major reason many folks don’t venture out to the Leeward side is the distance from the usual tourist hub of Waikiki. However, that shouldn’t discourage you; in fact this is what makes this part of the island such a wonderful place to visit. There are a couple of resorts nearby including the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa at Ko Olina and Makaha Resort & Golf Club. Both of these properties are good choices if you plan to stay outside of Waikiki.

The Waianae coast stretches 20 miles from the town of Nanakuli to Makua Beach. A nonstop ride from Waikiki takes about 1 and 1/2 hours. The main attractions on this side of the island are the beaches, but you’ll also find some great local plate lunch spots including our favorite, the Maile Deli located in Maili. The Maile Deli is reasonably priced and famous for their gravy and burger bowl (aka “loco moco”). If that’s “over the top” for you there’s Sun Sushi, a great sushi takeout place with a few tables. The sushi there is fresh, tasty, and nicely prepared.

As mentioned, the beaches are a main attraction on the Waianae coast. The ride up the coast is magnificent and you can sample some of the beautiful beaches along the way. During the winter months, the surf may be intense so you may wish to visit during the summer months when the surf is calmer. We decided to ride all the way up to the end of the coast to Makua Beach and work our way back. Makua Beach is tucked away behind the mountains and good for a little private time with that special someone. Unfortunately, it is not a good place for recreational swimming so we just enjoyed a picnic lunch there.
 
Our next stop was Makaha Beach. This beach is wide and not too crowded; the water was perfect for swimming. There’s a wonderful beach park there with beautiful views of the mountains. We then went to Maili Beach Park. We were lucky to go during a festival and got to see wonderful local handmade items for sale. Although we did some sunbathing; short breaks made it a bit hazardous for swimming. However, Maili Beach is great for boogie boarding. 

 

Our last stop was Pokai Beach Park. We spent the rest of the day here because it’s perfect for swimming. A protective breakwater makes Pokai Beach Park the safest place on the Waianae coast to swim. This is the ideal place to enjoy a day at the beach if you have children. I can recommend many other beaches on the Waianae coast, including Ohikilolo and Nanakuli.

A trip to the Leeward side of Oahu is certainly worth your time; there is so much to see and experience and should be included in your Oahu vacation plans. If you need more information about the Leeward side of Oahu or would like to plan a day on the Waianae coast, please give me a call at 1-800-843-8771 extension 22 and I will be happy to hook you up with everything you need.

 

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1 comment July 27th, 2009

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