A beautiful but unassuming waterway runs right next to a busy street in central Kailua town. These two birds look as though they are waiting for an opening in traffic to cross the street. But both the birds and their home are much more important than they first appear. The Ae‘o, or Stilt, is a native of Hawaii and, standing 16 inches on bright pink legs, it is the tallest shorebird. The Stilt is one of four endangered native Hawaiian waterfowl that live in the Hamakua Marsh. To see them, all you need to do is walk along the stream or sit and watch for a while.
Hamakua Marsh is beautiful and tranquil. It is also a State of Hawaii wildlife sanctuary and is designated a "wetland of international importance" by the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands (a preservation organization based in Switzerland). Last month, its future became much more secure. A coalition of public and private groups purchased 87 acres on the ridge behind the marsh so that it can be preserved. At one time the ridge was slated for development as a retirement community.
The only clue to the significance of the space is a sign that shows drawings of the four endangered birds and gives their descriptions. That may soon change. Hamakua Marsh and nearby Kawai Nui Marsh (also a Ramsar designated wetland) are part of a big restoration project. The goal is to preserve native plants and animals while removing non-native invasive species. The two marshes have a rich history that includes native Hawaiian religious, cultural and ecological practices. In the future, they may have trails and programs for tourists and students. But don’t wait. It is just too easy to stop for a spell and admire the many waterfowl at home in their environment rather than a zoo or museum.
The proximity and openness of the marsh means it is not unusual to see the birds wandering around Kailua. I’ve seen ducks in the parking lots of most businesses across the street. Frequently, I wait for my bus along with a white crane who seems to be looking for a ride to Honolulu. I walk by the marsh often and am always struck by its beauty. The calmness of the water reflecting trees and the nearby ridge is beautiful even when not accented by the ripple of a passing duck.
The hardest thing about experiencing the marsh may be realizing that you are there. It runs along the mauka (toward the mountain) side of Hamakua Drive at the entrance to Kailua town. Several buses stop nearby and there is parking on the street or in nearby parking lots. Although the pending restoration is welcome and long overdue, it is a lovely treat to have the marsh free and openly accessible.
Posted by Cindy Scheopner Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner
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September 1st, 2009
I had the opportunity to make a quick jump over to the Big Island recently, for a private gig with my fiddle player Lesley. We were asked to provide some tasteful Irish music for a scotch tasting event for about a dozen people. We obliged happily, as all expenses were paid and we were to be put up at the luxurious Hilton Waikoloa Village.
We flew over to Kona on Hawaiian Airlines, and I had no problem carrying on my guitar case/overnight bag. We had e-tickets, so I have the feeling that if I had checked in with a human I would have had to actually check my guitar as baggage and therefore risk it being destroyed. This was not the case, however, and my gig bg fit comfortably in an overhead bin. I am unaccustomed to hassle-free air travel, so the experience fostered some faith in the industry.
We went directly (to my vague dismay, as I had hoped to check in at the Waikoloa first) to the venue, Aloha Friday’s at the Kona Coast Resort. I was told that the timeshare development has been at 100% capacity for twenty years. There are quite a few amenities there, things like shuffleboard, volleyball, barbeque pits and a pool and spa. I’m not particularly familiar with the timeshare experience, but from what I could ascertain at the Kona Coast Resort, it is certainly a fine way to spend a vacation. Shell Vacations operates there, and offers a wide variety of recreational opportunities from the coast to the summits of the Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa volcanoes.
Between sets at Aloha Friday’s, I was served what may be the biggest and best rib-eye steak I’ve ever had the joy of eating. The service was impeccable and the guests were properly sated by the time the affair ended.
We didn’t get to the Waikoloa until after 10pm, so I was forced to rise early the next morning in order to make the most of my brief time of the property. Lesley and I did manage to have martinis and mojitos at the Malolo Lounge before turning in.
The Hilton Waikoloa is, to say the least, expansive. Our room overlooked the tennis complex and stadium. There are multiple swimming pools on the property, one of which is a saltwater pool fed by the ocean and populated by reef fish and frequent turtle visitors. I elected to lounge in a simulated lava rock grotto with a Jacuzzi. I am a world class Jacuzzi enthusiast. Cocktail service doesn’t start until 10am, so I was forced to go without a requisite vacation Bloody Mary.
I wandered over to the Dolphin Quest encounter area, where two teen siblings were entranced by the friendly and strangely human behavior of smiling dolphins. With only about a half hour to kill before making the drive to the Kona airport, I strolled among the Buddhist statues leading to Buddha Point, a jutting piece of real estate home to a large Buddha statue. I rubbed his belly and headed back to our room to gather my things.
My only regret about the brief sojourn is that I didn’t have more time to spend at the Hilton Waikoloa. It is an impressive property and our room was cool, quiet and handsomely appointed. The golf course is gorgeous, and should I make it back there, I will most certainly play a round there. Although I didn’t have much time, I found my experience t the Kona Coast Resort and the Hilton Waikoloa to be most worthy of recommending to anyone.
August 31st, 2009
What image do you have in your mind if I say "art museum"? For some, it’s a stuffy display; others imagine pretentious hipsters with black clothes and bad attitudes. I don’t have those doubts, I enjoyed art museums when I toured Europe as a college student but they were large and scary. On my own, I felt lost but on a tour I felt herded.
Honolulu has the perfect antidote to art museum angst. The Honolulu Academy of Arts is a gem. It is fairly small and unintimidating yet it has an impressive collection. In addition to paintings, there are displays of sculpture, fabric, and sometimes photos or even furniture. If you want a tour, they are available. In fact, there are a number of free tours every day. It’s also easy to wander around — signs give you information about each item. The small rooms make viewing a very personal experience.
The first time I went to the art academy, I saw an exhibit of furnishings that people brought to Hawaii in the early 1800’s — some western, some from China and Japan. It was fun to see what people treasured enough to ship half way around the world. There was also a display of Japanese paintings. I know nothing about Japanese art, this was the first time I had seen it but the display and signs made it very easy to understand and enjoy. I actually got a lump in my throat while standing an arm’s length from a Picasso — just imagining him touching the same canvas then in front of me brought tears to my eyes.
The museum is arranged in a series of collections that are housed in small galleries around courtyards. You can spend a few minutes, a few hours or a few days exploring them. The academy shop sells books, prints, and unique gifts. As with the art on display, Hawaiian works are prominent. A cafe serves lunch from 11:30 - 2:00 pm. The art academy is closed on Mondays. The admission is $10 but seniors (62+), students and military pay only $5 and children under 12 are free.
Whether the art academy is your first experience in an art museum or you are an art connoisseur, you owe it to yourself to check it out. The building and its contents are a true treasure in the heart of Honolulu.
Posted by Cindy Scheopner Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner
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August 28th, 2009
Hawaii-Aloha.Com Travel Agents Win Recognition as Top Producers
Three agents of Hawaii Aloha Travel, Hawaii-Aloha.Com, are among the top producing agents for Hyatt Resorts this past year. Tara Baron, Paul Bowen and Kalei Javellana have won complimentary trips to Hyatt Regency Aruba Resort and Casino where they will receive awards November 12-14, 2009.
Tara, Paul and Kalei competed with other all other agents in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom. They among the top 120 producers from those three countries and rank even higher when looking only at Hawaii bookings. Tara and Kalei are among the top ten producing agents for the Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort & Spa, Paul is among the top ten producing agents for the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa.
"The Slice of Paradise program recognizes agents whose clients stay at Hyatt Resorts in Hawaii, continental United States and Caribbean. In terms of overall production, the three Hawaii resorts have the lion’s share of Slice of Paradise award bookings. So people are still traveling to Hawaii. We are also pleased to be able to continue this recognition event this year," says Renee Nakashima, Senior Travel Industry Sales Manager for the Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort & Spa.
“These agents are top producers by booking only Hawaii,” says Bruce Fisher, Hawaii Aloha Travel Founder. “They were competing with agents who may book in many different locations.” Fisher says the Hyatt resorts are popular destinations for Hawaii Aloha travelers with over 800 room nights booked at Hyatt properties in Hawaii already this year.
The Hyatt Slice of Paradise program counts the number of rooms booked at 19 participating Hyatt Resorts by individual travel agents. Clients must stay a minimum of four nights in Hawaii or the Caribbean (three nights for mainland resorts) and must have already traveled.
This is the sixth year of the recognition program, which has grown as the travel industry community has become more knowledgeable about it. Previous Slice of Paradise Events were held at Hyatt resorts in Scottsdale, Lost Pines (Texas), Tamaya (New Mexico) and Huntington Beach
August 27th, 2009
Admissions Day at the Kaneohe Bay Sand Bar
When a retired U.S. Marine Corps pilot invited me along on an Admissions Day cruise out to the sand bar in his 20-foot fishing boat, I jumped at the chance. I’ve been out there with him before, several times in fact, but it had never occurred to me to write about the unique experience of being out in the middle of the bay with hundreds of other sun worshippers.
The sand bar is accessible by boat, raft, paddle board, kite board, or any other ocean vessel capable of making it one mile in a fairly sheltered bay. We launched from the harbor at Marine Corps Base Hawaii, a restricted-use harbor accessible only by current and retired military personnel (a civilian writer/musician can’t even get onto the base without properly credentialed sponsorship). The sand bar is also accessible from the nearby Heeia Boat Ramp.
The journey to the sand bar takes you over dark water, before the massive mound of white sand leaps from the depths into the sunlight. After dropping anchor, securing the sun shade and deploying the recreational paddle board and kayak, our Captain’s retirement U.S. flag was hoisted and the cooler was opened for business.
There had been concerns among those on the boat about ominous clouds holding fast over the bay, but by the time the first shrimp was peeled, it was clear that it would be a long, beautiful day. My other trips aboard the Salty Krak’r had seen the sand bar jammed with many dozens of boats. Local families and friends, serious ocean recreation enthusiasts and howling Marines wade about on the sand bar for hours on end. But Admissions Day at the sand bar was relatively quiet. Maybe twenty vessels had made the trip, which made the atmosphere less like a Cancun spring break party than a resort setting.
Navy transport planes circled the Bay all day, performing touch and go training flights. A kite-boarder skittered to and fro across the sand bar and a group of ladies took stand-up paddle boards upwind into the trades before letting themselves be blown back by the brisk, warm breeze.
There are some important things to remember when making the trip to the sand bar. When packing for the day, be sure to include far more sunscreen than you think you might need. There is no shade other than what your vessel provides, and even on overcast days, the ultraviolet rays are savage and relentless. Water is also essential, particularly if you’re imbibing adult beverages. Dehydration is not just a concern, it is a danger. Also, bring something to put your trash in. Littering on the sandbar is not only extremely bad form, it is a crime. The area is patrolled by the State Department of Land and Natural Resources, and the officers take protecting the Kaneohe Bay estuary very seriously.
The other important thing to remember about the sand bar at Kaneohe Bay is that there are no restrooms. Unless you’re lucky enough to be aboard a cabin cruiser with a “head,” jumping in the water is the only option for a restroom facility. That can be uncomfortable for the more timid, but after an hour in the sun and some maritime libations, few seem to mind. Anchors aweigh!
August 26th, 2009
Until this weekend, all I knew about sake was that it could be ordered either warm or cold in restaurants that serve Asian food. I am still far from an expert, but I have now tasted a full range of sake, from basic to exotic, many available only in Japan. My particular experience is courtesy of the Joy of Sake event at the Honolulu Academy of Arts. This event is interesting for a couple of reasons. First, there are only three: New York, San Francisco and Honolulu. Honolulu is MUCH smaller than either of the other venues, but attracts similar international events not available to mainland cities of its size. The second reason is that it demonstrates how popular sake is here.
When Rick and I first moved to Hawaii, we surveyed the liquor section of the grocery store. There are one or two bourbons, a small handful of scotches, and an aisle and a half of sake. We would look at all of them, clueless, wondering what makes a good or bad sake? It seems like such a wonderful opportunity to learn about something new, we both wanted to engage. Had the Joy of Sake event not presented itself, we could have explored other opportunities. Several restaurants and bars in Hawaii offer sake tastings or flights (a set of samples). Sake is best enjoyed with food and most local venues would be happy to suggest an appropriate sake for your meal.
This is what I learned this weekend. There are ten sake-brewing regions in Japan and one sake brewery on Okinawa. The four sake categories describe the rice-polishing ratio: the percentage of the rice kernel that remains after polishing. The are: Junmai (at least 70%), Gingo (60%+), Daiginjo B (40-50%) and Daiginjo A (40% or less). The lower the polishing ratio, the higher the quality of the sake. According to the program from Joy of Sake, experts pay attention to five areas when rating sake: balance, taste, aroma, finish and overall impression. Balance is the most important.
Sake is clear and subtle. Its flavor is much lighter than any liquor and most wines. It pairs well with Japanese and other Asian food because it is not overwhelming. Don’t be afraid to try it - you won’t make a wrong choice. There is no rigid definition of which sake goes with what food. And, as the Joy of Sake program says (quoting Takao Nihei) "There’s no such thing as a bad sake."
Posted by Cindy Scheopner Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner
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August 25th, 2009
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For those interested in eco-tourism, but who have no interest in staying in a yurt, riding a bike for miles or living on wheat gluten and lentils, there are ways to have a positive environmental impact during a Hawaii vacation without having to abide a monastic asceticism suited only to the most devoted earth warriors. There are many community groups that conduct cleanups in different parts of the islands. KAUPA is just such a non-profit group. The Kalihi Ahupua’a Ulo Pono Ahahui is dedicated to restoring the Kalihi Stream to its rightful and vital condition.
Kalihi Stream is a true urban oasis, a verdant swath that runs from the depths of Kalihi Valley through downtown Honolulu to the ocean. Due to residential and commercial development over a period of over 100 years, the area has been degraded by pollution and invasive species. The problems Kalihi Stream faces range from simple litter to industrial waste. On the second Saturday of each month, KAUPA conducts a stream cleanup that seeks to remove litter, eradicate invasive species, make walking path improvements and reintroduce native plant species that once characterized the natural environment around Kalihi Stream.
In its two years of service to the community, KAUPA has removed many tons of solid waste, things like plastic bags, cigarette butts and engine blocks. Tons of green-waste, items ranging from carelessly chucked yard clippings to great bundles of invasive California grass. Native species have regained a foothold along KAUPA’s area of stewardship, with several varieties of staple food plants now being lovingly tended.
All of this work has been done by an army of volunteers who have thus far donated thousands of hours to efforts to clean up Kalihi Stream. KAUPA Executive Director Barbara Natale reports that many of those hours have been donated by visitors to the islands with an interest in helping mitigate environmental problems in the places they visit. These aren’t people who drive hybrid cars and live “off-grid,” they’re simply people who care enough about the condition of the planet to get dirty trying clean it up. Groups from Oahu schools, the University of Hawaii, and dozens of other institutions and organizations have participated.
There’s nothing quite like working up a sweat for a truly good cause. The cleanup of Kalihi Stream has important cultural impact by educating people about the original condition of the stream, and how it was a crucial resource for native Hawaiians who lived in the area.
Recently awarded a new grant from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, KAUPA is poised to step up its efforts and increase to positive impact it has clearly already had along Kalihi Stream.
For more information go to kaupa4kalihi.org.
Posted by: Jamie Winpenny
On Twitter: @doolinjamie
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August 24th, 2009
When I packed for my first trip to Hawaii, I had no idea what shoes to bring. This is not just a girl thing, so guys don’t stop reading. I was going to a business conference, so I brought a pair of dress shoes and I figured sandals would be good for a warm climate. I bought a new pair because I didn’t really wear sandals in Colorado. I brought my flip flops (called "slippers" in Hawaii) for the beach. Every one of those decisions was wrong.
I wasn’t alone. I remember watching other conference participants slog along the Honolulu beach-walk from conference sessions in one hotel to another in closed-toe shoes. Flip flops were too casual for the meetings but dress shoes were inappropriate on the beach. After the first session, I gave up on dress shoes and wore sandals. That was a reasonable compromise for the meetings. But they were new and I walked a lot more than I thought I would at a conference. My first stop on the second day was at an ABC store for band-aids for blisters on both feet.
The weather was so perfect and the scenery so beautiful that I wanted to walk a lot, both around Honolulu and later on a bus around Oahu. But blisters, and inappropriate footwear, made that unpleasant. I wasn’t even hiking, just exploring the island on foot. Dress shoes were not good for walking long distances or on the beach. Same for the sandals, which were also too new to be comfortable. The flip flops might have worked but they had a closed toe that is very good for not stubbing your toe on rocks in Colorado. However, sand got stuck in the toe when I wore them on the beach making them uncomfortable and impossible to clean.
NOW this is what I would bring for any trip to Hawaii, whether business or pleasure: one pair of comfortable walking shoes that are really broken in. That’s it. They would work for most conferences — even business conferences are more casual in Hawaii than on the mainland. They are also essential for some attractions (such as visiting Pearl Harbor) that involve standing or walking. And they make it possible to experience an impromptu hike on one of Hawaii’s many enticing trails.
I would buy slippers for the beach after I got here, either a cheap pair to use and discard (sold at every convenience store) or a better pair to take home as a souvenir (I now have an expensive pair with arch support that I have worn pretty much every day for a year without a single blister.) After all, who knows slippers better than Hawaii?
(See Hawaii in One Bag)
Posted by Cindy Scheopner Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner
August 20th, 2009
I visited Hawaii two times for conferences before I moved here. One difference between the two trips was that I knew how long the plane ride would be from Denver to Honolulu the second time. The first time, I was on the same non-stop flight with my boss. It seemed like a good idea — we would get to and from Honolulu as quickly as possible. Also, he hates connecting flights because there may be delays or problems. That makes sense, too. It all made perfect sense in my head but somewhere over the middle of the Pacific (half way through the seven hour flight) my body was very tired of being in an airplane seat. I actually dreaded the return trip home, not only because I hated leaving this wonderful place, but also because I didn’t want to get back in the plane.
On the next trip, we changed planes in California. The flight from Los Angeles to Honolulu is just over 5 hours. That may not seem like much of a difference, but to me being able to get out and walk around before the last leg of the trip was very welcome. On our most recent trip to the mainland we took it even further, spending the night in Portland before continuing on to Denver. We were visiting family in Portland, but it also made the trip across the Pacific fairly painless.
The combination of the trip duration and the time change (3-6 hours, depending on where you leave from on the mainland) makes the trip seem long the first time. There are many ways to entertain yourself and distract small children, but I think it is important also to know what your tolerance is for sitting in one place. It won’t be the same for everyone. On my sister’s recent visit, she and her husband used a layover in LA to have a nice meal before completing the trip. One fellow passenger on her flight from Denver to LA said his unhappy experience in Hawaii began with "the never-ending plane ride". It is a shame to be disappointed with this first impression when there are alternatives. The most important is information: talking with someone who has made the flight many times. I’m not in that category yet — others on this website are — but I have learned what works for me.
This third trip was a joy! I knew what to expect and scheduled my flights accordingly. It was also wonderful because this is the first time that I returned to Hawaii as "home."
(See Hawaii Vacation in One Bag)
Posted by Cindy Scheopner Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner
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August 18th, 2009
Three of my favorite things are food, boats and sunset. When you can combine all of them, and then put it in Hawai‘i, I’m sold. I used to watch ships depart for their sunset dinner cruises from a pau hana (happy hour) patio at Aloha Tower. When my sister and her husband came for a recent vacation, I had the perfect excuse to check them out.
Dinner cruise options range from fancy (it’s hard to call anything "formal" here, but a jacket is required) to casual, with several stops in between. We chose one near the middle. They were also taking part in a luau and we had a fine dining reservation later in the week, so the main attraction of the dinner cruise was the opportunity to see Waikiki from the water as the sun set. It did not disappoint.
As we boarded, a professional photographer took a souvenir photo. That makes a nice keepsake, but we had more fun later when passengers took turns photographing one another. Cameras were exchanged, along with stories. One couple was on a honeymoon, another a business trip. Many were from different countries and had only rudimentary English. But a camera, a smile and a nod usually convey the offer to take a photo that includes everyone in the group.
The cruise we selected provided a buffet (others have plated meals). The food was delicious, attractively presented and plentiful. It was tasty without being too exotic for my brother-in-law, who hadn’t been too sure about some of the luau offerings. The highlight of the meal, however, was the wonderful music provided by local musicians. The music began before the food was served and continued throughout the evening. By the time the ship returned to the dock, young passengers with no common language were sharing dance moves.
It was fun to point out spots we had visited from the water: their hotel, where we snorkeled, where our next dinner was scheduled. Rick, of course, was watching the waves and how the ship handled them. My sister marveled at the idea that we were actually on the ocean (rather than a lake) — there is no shore across the horizon until you run into another island (or country). It is one think to be aware that you are traveling across the ocean to a little populated rock, it is quite another to actually feel the experience. The dinner cruise gave us a little taste of that in just a couple of hours.
Posted by Cindy Scheopner Follow me on Twitter @Scheopner
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August 13th, 2009
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