Surf Pt 1: Wave, Board, Surfer

We promised to tell you more about where surfing came from. This is the first of a two-part series sharing the history and evolution of surfing and how it played a vital role in the Hawaiian culture, sometimes taking priority over daily chores as a competitive, religious and community pastime. 

A favorite long boarding wave on Kaua‘i.

Before we dive deep into the history of surfing, it's important you know the basics. Here's the breakdown of the surfing anatomy: the wave, the board and the surfer. Though modern day surfing has added many gadgets and accessories, these three basic elements are all one truly needs to partake in the sport. Part two of this story will include mo‘olelo (stories, legends) about Hawai‘i surf spots, as well as common rituals associated with surfing. I can almost guarantee you'll learn at least one new thing from this two-part series; I definitely did, and now when I surf, I'll be sure to share what I learned with others in the line-up.

Wave

Before a surfer can even think about surfing, there has to be waves. Waves form hundreds of thousands of miles out at sea before traveling toward land. Wind is the primary wave-building force. It hits the ocean's surface for long periods of time, creating rough seas and stormy conditions. The waves that leave these storms are called "swells," and they are similar to how ripples roll outward from a pebble dropped in a pond. The swells start to peak as the water's depth gets shallower. This is where a surfer catches the wave, before it crashes back into the ocean and disappears into millions of fizzy bubbles. 

Forming far out at sea before nearing land, waves like these are a surfer's dream.

Despite its name – which means peaceful ocean – the Pacific can get pretty rough. Storms throughout the Pacific can generate swells that sometimes head for Hawai‘i. Word gets out pretty quickly when waves are on their way, either from the nightly news reports, the Internet, telephone hotline or a smartphone app. There are numerous websites that provide the daily surf outlook for Hawai‘i and beyond. One from the National Weather Service shows where swells are headed and measure their size with a color-coded illustration. Buoys out in the middle of the ocean help track swells that pass under them. They can provide up-to-date readings of how big swells are and how consistent the waves will be.

Some surfers live by these surf forecasts. They're aptly called wave chasers or swell chasers, similar to storm chasers, who track tornadoes or hurricanes on land. My boyfriend and I have a friend here on O‘ahu who just took an impromptu trip to Japan after reading surf forecasts for the coming week. And yes, we're very, very jealous.

VIDEO: A Maui surf trip with my family. Putting it all together – the wave, the board and the surfer – and some fun stuff in between. 

Board

There are several ways to ride a wave – by canoe, kayak, surfboard or scratch it all and just use your own body. Ancient Hawaiians made their boards out of koa or ‘ulu (breadfruit) trees. They could weigh up to 150 lbs. and be thicker than the vertical length of your hand. These boards, called 'olo boards, were 16 feet long and only used by chief. Children used smaller boards that were less than four feet tall. (The Bishop Museum has a collection of these ancient boards on display.) 

Boards have come a long way since then. They're now made with molded plastic foam or balsa wood and sealed with water-proofing fiberglass or epoxy. This makes the surfboards much lighter. There are two basic categories for boards: shortboard and longboard. Shortboards are usually no longer than seven feet and have more maneuverability on waves than a longboard. Longboards can be anywhere from nine to 12 feet in length and are more buoyant than shortboards. Beginners should learn to surf on longboards before jumping on a shortboard, as they're easier to paddle and balance on.

A stack of surfboards shows the evolution in their design.

Some important board design evolutions since ancient times: skegs (acts as rudders to hold the board in the wave and allow one to steer), leashes (attaches from the tail of the board to the surfer's ankle or calf, preventing him/her from losing the board and having to swim for it) and wax (surfer rubs this all over the deck of the board to create traction and prevent from slipping off). Hawaiians didn't have wax and instead made scratches on their boards. Today some surfers have added lengthened canoe-paddles to the mix and stand-up paddle into the waves.

Surfer

My sister, Ariel, walking the nose in Maui. Today's surfers do more tricks on waves than in ancient times.

With a wave to ride and a board to stand on, the surfer can enjoy the ultimate ocean experience. The best way to understand surfing would be to take a lesson and try for yourself. But generally, a surfer should sit where the wave peaks. When a wave approaches, he/she will lie on the board facing the shore and paddle with both arms. A push forward from the wave signals the surfer to stand up on the board and ride the moving water beneath.  Easier said than done, but when done, it's hard to let go.

Kaua‘i & Wave Photo Credit: Noa Myers

Source: Finney, Ben and Houston, James. Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport. San Francisco: Pomegranate Artbooks, 1996.

Posted by Alyssa S. Navares Follow me on Twitter @Uamalie87

Published by Bruce Fisher

Since 2006 Bruce Fisher has been publishing the Hawaii Vacation Blog and the Hawaii Vacation Connection Podcast which, create daily content about Hawaii Travel and Tourism. This Blog is the only online resource providing Hawaii-based information aimed at travelers seven days per week. Postings reflect the Hawaiian Islands, their culture and their lifestyle as accurately and thoroughly as possible.

Entry Filed under: Fun Stuff,Hawaiiana,How to Hawaii,Maui,Oahu,Ocean

October 25th, 2011